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Harpenden's pubs strive to put the emphasis on fine dining. Does The Fox use its cunning to compete?

I arrived just after noon on an unseasonally cold spring day but was pleased to be met by an encouragingly full car park. First impressions, as with most things, count for a great deal and it’s always a positive sign to see a pub with many cars outside its door.

There is a smart, clean fee to all the pubs in this chain and The Fox is certainly no exception. I was welcomed instantly and my bar order taken. There is one ale available in Timothy Taylor Landlord as well as an interesting selection of beers from around the World including Amstel, Becks Vier and Staropramen. I chose a Jupiler Blue which, at only 3.3% abv, is a useful drink to have around at lunchtimes if you have a long working afternoon ahead. It has a quite malty flavour that somehow belies its comparatively low strength.

An impressive wine list contains twenty nine wines from around the World, ranging in price from £12.00 for a Luigi Leonardo Pinot Grigio, up to £30.00 for a Le Comte Lafond Sancerre. Approximately fifty per cent of these wines are available by the glass with the average price per glass being around £4.00.
The food menu is very extensive and there is such a wide range that there must surely be something to please every palate. It is so vast that it is probably best to look for yourselves at www.thefoxharpenden .co.uk, however these are some of the edited highlights:
Seared Tuna Carpaccio with Pickled Ginger, Mirin and Asian Slaw at 6.50, Pork Saltimbocca with Prosciutto, Lemon, Marsala and Creamed Potatoes at 10.00, Fillet Steak with Horseradish Mash and Baby Spinach at 17.50 and Mushroom, Leek and Talaggio Pie at 9.50.

I opted for the Cider Braised Onion Tart with Goat’s Cheese and Watercress and the Tagliatelle with Cream, Smoked Bacon and Mushrooms. Food arrived quickly and, although, I had asked for it to arrive separately, both dishes did arrive at once. This aside, everything was perfect: The tart had a delicious combination of flavours, each complimenting the others perfectly without one ever dominating. The tagliatelle was generous and, although quite a simple dish, everything was faultless.

My bill for the food alone came to £12.50 and I felt this was exceptionally good value for money. I was certainly delighted to have chosen The Fox.

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